Monday, February 2, 2004

From the past - South Africa 2

Hi Friends,

You would think that after the adventure of the Rhino, it would be hard to top. And, granted, I have yet to be chased by any other wild animals. However, adventures come in all shapes and sizes, and, for me, languages.

After the rhinoceros adventure, me and the other new volunteers each spent a week in a homestay in Soweto. Soweto is the largest black township in South Africa, and was built during the 40+ years of apartheid rule, when black South Africans were not allowed to live in the city center, nor in any of the more desirable (read “with trees”) suburbs. It was the center of the resistance, and the site of famous student protests in 1976, which began the process of breaking the back of the apartheid government. Well, to say the least, there are still no people living in Soweto who aren’t black, so walking down the street, I got a lot of stares, and comments. Mainly, people would ask my host sister what I was doing with her, but they didn’t mind my presence. You can hear good ‘ole hip hop blazing everywhere, in addition to the local “kwaito” music. However, everyone in Soweto has a very neighborly attitude – they help each other out, share food, responsibilities for the children, without question – one of the major reasons that the more well off Sowetans don’t want to leave now, but would rather just expand their 4 room government issue houses into more comfortable and efficient homes.

The stay was capped by a braii (barbeque) at one of the homes, where all kinds of fools showed up – mainly to see the white folks, I think – and get their grub on. In fact, as the night went on, more and more people who at first were standing on the street watching, began to filter into the yard, and get jiggy. The beat was pumpin, and the highlight was a little 10 year old boy I’d like to call Mr. Bootie. This kid could shake what his momma gave him like no other (and it had to be his momma’s, cuz no 10 year old should have a bootie that big!). I have something to aspire towards, during my stay here.

We’ve had a week of zulu lessons, seen some local non-profits, including one based in a shantytown on the outskirts of Soweto, and then decided to go on yet another adventure. This time it was into the bush…seriously into the most rural of rural areas. (Note to family: I haven’t seen Vidisha, but the home, and village where I stayed are what I would picture Vidisha to look like.) We pumped water from a borehole, food is made over an open fire, all bathing and washing is done in tin tubs of various sizes, and to get anywhere, you walk down the dirt road. For dinner, we grabbed (the momma of the house, that is) one of the chickens which were in the yard, and, well, plucked and gutted it. Hey – it’s free range, all right. I don’t want to bore you, but I must tell one last story.

One of the neighboring homes had a TV, so we went there to watch a South Africa – Nigeria soccer match in the afternoon. Aside from the fact that all the little kids hid from me, and the (often drunk) old folks yelled at me in Afrikaans, this was the highlight. As we approached the doorway, I could see a framed picture of Jennifer Lopez in the room, and my host brother, Alex, was happy that I knew who she was. Then, from left to right in the room, we had framed pictures of The Cruxifiction, Jesus, 2 Pac, Ja Rule, J. Lo, Snoop Dogg (in a tribute to 2 Pac), and 50 Cent. Viva America.