From the past - South Africa 4

Hello hello,

I hope that life “on the other side” is well, and that you are healthy and happy. It seems like I’m communicating from a completely different dimension – I have no idea what is really going on in the rest of the world, because news here is very locally focused, and has been consumed by Charlize Theron of late. So, I hear snippets – the gay marriage issue is blowing up, Anay is safe but there is havoc in Madrid, March Madness…St. Joes? Who would’ve thunk it.

For me, however, adventures abound. From food to transport to conversation and even work life – in short, nothing in Africa is easy. I have, amongst other things, spiders, dogs and cats at work, parrots at the gym, and here, they eat monkey gland sauce on burgers and Mopani worms are a local delicacy. What’s up with that? But we won’t get into food…that could be dangerous for your digestive systems.

I’ve told you a little bit about the public taxi transportation system here, but it is completely ludicrous. It is cheap, though – that is a plus for a non-income earning person like myself. For example, I went to the airport via public taxi, to receive some very good friends who were passing through for the night. The trip there cost me R6.50 (about $1), vs. the ‘metered’ taxi (private car for hire) which cost R260 (about $38). There are certain disadvantages however. One of them is being squeezed in amongst 3 other people in a seat made for 2, often on a folding seat, or in the crack between the folding seat and the fixed one. And then, there is the fact that the door could fall off. Many seats (including…actually most often being, that of the driver) are broken, so you are in a sense reclining into the mass of humanity behind you. However, when the taxi driver decides to spend his money on outfitting the Combi with a sound system, (instead of a proper door, of course), it’s always fun. Oh yeah, and often, the drivers are high. But hey – why travel if you can’t travel in style!

On Wednesday, however, I did have a truly meaningful experience here. A roommate and myself passed our evening ‘restoring dignity’ to homeless people (not my words, but those of the program organizer.) through an organization called Paballo ya Bantu – Caring for the people. We were in downtown Jozi, at night. I say this because it is something that is virtually unheard of. Leave aside the fact that many non-black South Africans won’t even think of driving through, many locals are scared to be there. But this visit, under organized conditions and with a truly good purpose served to help erase some of my fear of downtown Jozi at night. Don’t get me wrong - I don’t think I would go if I weren’t with this group, but we spent several hours offering soup and bread to those who aren’t living in proper housing, talking to folks, and, well…getting a few marriage proposals. At our last stop, however, we were confronted by a truly disturbing scene. There were large fires going, and we were a bit surprised, because it was not a very cold night. And then the people (who expect this group every week) were very angry to see us. When we began to talk to them we learned that the Metro police had come by, and burnt all of their belongings – blankets, clothes, and even identity papers, with the intention of scaring them off so that they can ‘clean up’ the center of town. Why were the city police burning the blankets given by the city shelters? Who knows. I do know that without identity papers, however, one cannot vote. So, those affected by some of the outrageous policies of the government cannot retaliate democratically.

The thing was pseudo religious, so at the end, there was a reflective session. I was not struck as much by the poverty I saw as by the reaction of the young black students who were with me. They were my age, and what surprised me was that they said they did not know that people lived in such poverty. While I was saddened by what I saw, I can’t say that I didn’t know it existed. I suppose this shock stems from my innate… I hesitate to use the term prejudice… regarding Africa – residing in the fact that every American child is told not to waste their food because of the starving children in Africa. All in all, it was a powerful experience – especially seeing the hypocrisy of the government. Coupled with what I have been learning about how the ANC government regards the AIDS crisis in this country, I can’t say it surprises me, but it does really anger me.

We’ll leave the AIDS crisis to another email, however. To heavy for this one.

In other news – I’ll be headed to Botswana at the end of next week for a conference called the CIVICUS World Assembly. I’m psyched. I will consider it a recognizance trip for my future plan to visit the botswanian bush. :) And, luckily, I’m making friends. My housemates and I had set a goal for a new friend a week…and while I’m not sure I’m making that quota, I do my part in meeting interesting folk – all, of course, so that when we have a party, we’ll have people to invite!

It’s good to have goals.

Keep in touch – let me know of any fun or important news, and I hope that life is treating you well. On a reflective note, even if you don’t feel that it is, know that it is much better than some other possibilities.

Until next time,
Nirali