World Cup Fever!!!

Just two days back in Jozi, and I’m already finding ways to get into situations. It must be something about this city. The memories are coming back for sure- Campus Square Mall with the Pick N Pay, and people selling things at the corner. The only difference is that now they are selling flags of every country, hats that look like soccer balls, and of course, the ubiquitous vuvuzela.

For all the vuvuzela naysayers, you have to be here. The vibe in the stadium when people are going, in rhythm - some of them sound like old elephants, while others sound like kazoos - absolutely wild. And the horns aren’t just confined to the stadia - people walk down the street blowing them, take them into the bars where they are watching the games, have them in their car. On a public health side note, there will be a great deal of hearing loss as a result. Even with earplugs, you get the full effect.

My first match was seen in Melville, on 7th street - an old haunt. It was South Africa-Uruguay, and the town was decked in yellow. Every bar was packed, and tvs were blaring. But, after the red card and penalty kick, things fell flat. The stadium started clearing out, the vuvuzelas stopped their song, and those who could, probably drank more. For the host nation, Bafana Bafana is not a very smooth team.

And then today, the first live match. USA-Slovenia at Ellis Park, on the other side of the city. It was a project, to figure out how I was going to get there alone, and how to get back after dark. There is a new “rapid transit” bus system called Rea Vaya, with built stations throughout the region. But, of course, nothing in Melville. So, I decided to take a combi, my old form of transport, into city center. Someone advised me that I could walk from the Nord rank to Ellis Park. But the first foray into city center, after 6 years, was disconcerting. I remembered some things, but have forgotten most of my zulu. Street names were familiar, but not registering. In the end, after asking a couple of uniformed folks - some kind of pseudo police who are deployed all over during the event, I think - someone decided that I was lost. I was not lost, in fact. I was just a bit disoriented. But it was 1pm, sunny, and I had no problem walking. Unfortunately, I could not explain this adequately to my new guardian, who decided that... I should get a police escort. Yes. Just to set the record straight, though, I was in the front seat of the van. It was ludicrous. But, they drove me like a kilometer, and then couldn’t get any closer anyway, so I walked.


The transport systems have been improved. But the attitude, about how foreigners, or even non-black people - cannot possibly figure out there way around town remains. There are park and ride stations, but if you don’t have a car and you are in one of the more upscale neighborhoods, there is no answer for how you will get to the stadium. The official guide alludes to a “westport” transport hub. Is it the Bree taxi rank? Who knows. No one has ever heard of such a hub.

On Sunday, I will travel in style to Soccer City, for Brazil-Cote d’Ivoire. My hostess and her whole family are going, and they have rented their own combi for the event. :) And before I get there, I have to acquire some random flags/hats/scarves so that I don’t feel naked.

I'm purposely not discussing the game I just saw. As exciting as the 2nd half was, there was so many frustrating moments, that there is no need to relive it.